Note: For the following usage and care instructions,
please refer to the feature diagram at right.

Inspection
When you first receive your new feeder and unbox it, look it over to ensure it was not damaged during shipment.  We take care that the packaging will protect the feeder during shipment, but on very rare occasions damage can occur.  If you notice any significant dents or compressions in the wood that concern you, you may want to do a 24-hour leak test with clear water before using it.  The feeders are all pre-tested, so unless you notice shipping damage, an additional leak test is not needed, and you can skip this procedure.

Each feeder is hand-crafted using the highest quality materials, including water-seal Gorilla Glue^™ (syrup reservoir), TiteBond^™ III exterior-grade waterproof wood glue (exterior joints), deck-grade weatherproof screws, brads, inert silicone caulk, and marine-grade polyurethane (Minwax™ Indoor/Outdoor Helmsman Spar Urethane, Semi-Gloss).  After the construction and curing cycle is complete, each feeder is also thoroughly leak tested with pure water before shipment.  Our procedures and materials should guarantee years of reliable, leak-free service.  But if the feeder was significantly damaged during shipment, it is possible that the liquid seal in the syrup reservoir was broken.  If you notice any damage that concerns you, and you want to do an additional leak test, perform the following procedure:

	Set the feeder on a stable surface that allows you to inspect its four corners underneath without lifting it.  A sawhorse with a top surface is an example of an ideal support, but any object you can set the feeder on and still see its four corners underneath without moving it will do.
	Place the feeder in an area where it will not be disturbed and with no significant wind that may blow water over the walls of the bee-feeding areas along either side of the syrup reservoir (see diagram above).
	You do not need to remove any screening.
	Fill the feeder with water up to the top of the bee-feeding areas by pouring directly through the top screening into the center of the syrup reservoir.  If you add more than 2.7 gallons in the reservoir, or if the feeder is significantly tilted, water may run out the side through these bee-access areas.
	After 24 hours, if you notice no leaking on the underside corners, or if you notice only dampness in one or two spots, your feeder is OK and will not leak when feeding syrup on your hive.  However, if you notice any dripping, your feeder should be replaced, so please contact us for a replacement.

Painting
The outside surface of the feeder should be painted to add an extra measure of weather protection and increase the durability and usable life of your feeder.  A high-quality, exterior acrylic latex paint is the easiest to apply and provides years of excellent protection.  Paint ONLY the four outside surfaces, and apply two coats of paint for the best appearance and durability.

The latex paint we use does not require priming and preserves the wood without additional oil preparation. It is Sherwin Williams "SuperPaint", Exterior Latex Gloss, Super White, item 107-7171. This paint carries a 20-year warranty from Sherwin Williams.  But any high-quality, exterior acrylic latex paint will do fine if applied correctly. 

Whatever paint you choose, remember that the usable service life of your feeder is significantly affected by the quality of your paint and the quality of your painting job, so follow the paint manufacturer's instructions and apply two coats.

When to use the feeder
You need to use the feeder when supplemental feeding is necessary, as over-use can cause problems.  The need for supplemental feeding is determined by your hive location, your bee colony's health, the amount of nectar available, the colony's own honey stores, and the time of year.  In general, you can follow these rules of thumb to know when to give the bees supplemental syrup:

	Late Winter, usually in late January or early February, when daily temperatures are usually above freezing, and before the local blooming seasons begins
	During the summer months, if your blooming season is over and the colony's honey stores are depleted
	When installing a new bee package
	When installing a captured bee swarm in a hive with empty frames
	When you are giving medication that needs to be administered in syrup
	In late Fall and during Winter, when the bees' own honey stores are depleted
	When adding a new hive box
	To feed bees outside the hive, with the feeder set up away from the apiary
	When feeding is not needed but you want to add extra ventilation to the top of the hive, which is especially important during the Winter and Summer seasons
	Don't use the feeder when treating for Small Hive Beetles
	Don't use the feeder when you have supplemental honey supers installed on the hive
	Don't use the feeder with an inner cover

If your colony's stores of honey in the beehive frames are already full, supplemental feeding is not needed other than for medication or addition of new hive boxes.  Also, if you notice the bees stop taking the syrup at the rate of at least a quart per day, or if you are having a problem with Small Hive Beetles, you should stop giving them supplemental syrup.

Sugar Syrup
You should use either refined, granulated sugar (table sugar) or refined, high-fructose corn syrup (not available in grocery stores) to mix up the supplemental syrup for your bees.  Do NOT use brown sugar, molasses, etc., as this will damages the bees' digestive process.

The following table sugar-to-water ratios are needed, based on your application:

Pollen and Grease Patties
You may need to administer supplemental pollen in the form of pollen patties, as a protein source during early Spring or during periods of a nectar dearth.  You should also regularly give the colony grease patties to control tracheal mites.  An ideal medium for administering Terramycin for control of foulbrood is in the form of medicated grease patties.  The Dual-Access Hive-top Feeder has a recessed area below the syrup reservoir to give you ample clearance between the bottom of the feeder and the tops of the frames to put the patties on the frames.

Set feeder above the topmost brood box

Placement on the Hive
Place the feeder above the topmost brood box and directly underneath the top cover.  Do not use the inner cover, if you have one, with the hive-top feeder.  If you have supplemental honey supers installed on the hive, you do not need the feeder.

Because of the ventilation holes on the sides of the feeder and because of the extra clearance given by the top screening, the hive-top feeder also serves as a great source of additional important ventilation for your hive.  You can place the hive-top feeder on the hive as a source of ventilation all year long, even if you are not administering supplemental syrup.  This extra ventilation is especially helpful during the Winter.

Pour syrup directly through the top screening

Filling
You should usually fill the feeder only when it is empty.  You may pour up to 2.7 gallons of syrup directly through the top screening into the center of the reservoir.  Simply remove the top cover and pour the syrup through the screening.  Be careful to not overfill the feeder, causing the syrup to run over the sides of the feeding area.  If your hive has a normal orientation and is not tilted too dramatically, this will not be a problem.

Checking and Refilling
To check the syrup level, remove the top cover to inspect the reservoir.  If many dead bees (about a hundred or more) have accumulated in the feeding areas over time, take them out by removing the feeder from the hive and spraying out the feeder with a garden hose, directly through the screening.  Normally, you will not need to remove the screening to clean out accumulated dead bees.  If you notice only a few dead bees in the feeding areas, you will not need to clean the feeder before refilling it.

Periodic cleaning
Over time, bees will inevitably drown and accumulate in the feeding areas.  Also, if the bees stop taking the syrup and the syrup sits unused long enough to mold, you will need to empty the old syrup and clean out the mold.  To perform a thorough periodic cleaning, do the following:

	Remove the feeder from the hive and close up the hive; take the feeder away from the apiary.
	Remove both the top screening and both feeder screens
	Spray out the reservoir thoroughly using a garden hose
	Using a soft-bristled dish brush, clean out the reservoir
	Replace the feeder screens and the top screening, being very careful not to strip out the screw holes (see note below)
	Put the feeder back on the hive

IMPORTANT: If you use a power drill with a screw bit to replace the screening, be careful to set the torsion to 'low' and don't screw in the screws any further after they are seated.  This will avoid stripping out the screw holes.

Storage
Normally, you should leave the hive-top feeder on the hive year-round, even if you are not doing supplemental feeding.  This will add extra important ventilation to your hive.  If you need to remove the feeder and store it, perform a periodic cleaning if needed (see above).  Store the feeder in a dry place where it is not directly exposed to the weather.  If you have a problem with dirt-dauber wasps in your area, store the feeder so the wasps cannot enter the feeding areas from the bottom.